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At the Ernst Happel Stadion: Among the Azzurri fans
Midday at the Heldenplatz Fan Zone, and I'm seeking out the shade between the mini-game stands as TV camera crews swarm around me.
Vienna is sweltering, but Zinedine Zidane is managing to keep his cool as he puts some children through their paces on the practice pitch. An Austrian announcer is commentating on the five-a-side contest, although he appears to be just saying Zizou's name over and over again with some German words sporadically thrown in. The France legend beams effortlessly. An adidas bigwig standing nearby looks very pleased with himself indeed. Most of the kids are so young that they probably only know Zidane as 'the headbutt guy from the World Cup final', but he remains a charismatic figure. And he's in town for Spain v Italy - the last quarter-final, and the biggest game to date at Euro 2008.
Throughout the day, we pass groups of exuberant Spain fans bedecked in roja and amarillo, shouting rather than singing and generally scaring the locals. The Italians seem more reserved, perhaps aware that their team struggled through Group C while their opponents have won every game thus far, scoring eight goals. We stroll through the Prater, a huge park with amusement rides situated in the north of the city. The centrepiece is the ferris wheel, made famous by a scene in The Third Man with Orson Welles, but for this production the star is an octopus-like Petr Cech. Despite his blunder against Turkey, the Czech star remains number one here, his giant image adorning the side of the wheel.
Tifosi
After a pit stop for Bratwurst and Almdudler - fast becoming a staple diet among our party of three - we carry on towards the Ernst Happel, stopping only to allow the Italian team bus to zoom past us and the cheering Azzurri tifosi. Outside the ground, you get a true sense of the scale of the tournament. A car park packed deep with executive coaches used to ferry corporate hospitality guests and other sponsors; a grand UEFA Club area with rows of marquee tents guarded by severe security officers; an equally sizeable media hub with its own overhead walkway into the stadium; and the ubiquitous merchandise stalls at strategic points around the perimeter. Stewards lurk menacingly, on the lookout for any flag or large item which might display the name of a company that is not an official sponsor.
While this may sound sanitised and regimented, there's so much noise and colour from the supporters that you can't fail to get swept up in the carnival spirit. The sound of a beating drum comes into earshot and soon Manolo appears, wearing his matador's hat and backed by a troupe of trumpeters, all swathed in the national flag. The Italians respond with a rendition of their own chants, one of which passionately name-checks Luca Toni even though the strong-arm striker has failed to impress so far.
Occasion
The circular Ernst Happel retains an old-school stadium charm; it is now outdated compared to modern grounds but those who savour the sense of history in sporting arenas cannot fail to admire it on a night such as this. There are a fair few empty seats dotted around, mostly in the area where tickets would have been distributed by the Italian FA, but the crowd still tops 50,000. International football has its naysayers - especially in the era of the megabucks clubs - but as my friends and I discussed, this is surely the game in its purist form. The drama of knockout competition, the pride of representing your country, team-building without the benefit of financial muscle, fans in unison providing a backdrop of red and yellow, blue and white... this is not just one more game, it's an occasion to celebrate the game itself.
At England matches, there is a notorious tendency to boo the opposition's national anthem - one of the dispiriting aspects of following the Three Lions. But at Euro 2008, mass singalongs are actively encouraged as the lyrics are displayed on the big screens - perfect for Italy's rousing hand-on-heart anthem, while for Spain a simple der-der-der will suffice.
Superpowers
It's optimistic to expect a knockout duel between two footballing superpowers to be a goalfest, but naturally we'd hoped for better than a stalemate. David Villa scampers back and forth for Spain, harrying the Italian centre-backs but the final ball from David Silva and Xavi is lacking. Fernando Torres struggles to get into the contest, while Toni lumbers around up front for Italy looking bereft of confidence. The arrival of Cesc Fabregas from the bench lifts Spain - and my friend Steve, transmitting his support via his Arsenal shirt - but despite Gianluigi Buffon almost letting a Marcos Senna shot squirm over the line instead of against the post, a goal appears unlikely for either side.
Penalties arrive, the loud musical interludes and bright lights providing a gameshow feel, and the fear begins that Fabregas will be the fall guy for Spain - do they have the bottle, and can they beat Buffon? He saves from Dani Guiza, but Iker Casillas produces two superb stops, the second from Antonio Di Natale (whose play-acting in extra-time had elicited long boos from the crowd). Spain go crazy in the centre circle, except for one young man who bows his head and trudges forward. It's a moment of immense pressure for Fabregas... but he sends Buffon the wrong way, and keeps Spain heading for the final. True grit wins the day, but with the enterprising Russians up next and looking for revenge, a happy ending is by no means guaranteed.
With three games left to go this week, it would have been great to stay - and I'd have loved to go to Basel, because the atmosphere inside the St-Jakob Park has looked superb throughout the tournament - but alas my trip to Euro 2008 is over. The best bits? The sea of Swedes marching on Innsbruck; the skill and guile of new Russia, especially the bewitching Andriy Arshavin; marvelling at the Alps from the train as we sped from Zurich, and then on to Vienna; and the supersize Fan Zone in the heart of the Austrian capital, drawing fans from across Europe into the festival of football. Euro 2008 really is about the whole continent at play, with an open invitation to all. Let's hope the party now concludes with flair and fireworks.
Make goals, not war...
... reads the Italian slogan on my Goalfood.com T-shirt - many thanks to Nick for providing. Pop along to their website to check out more of their Euro 2008 designs, plus loads of other great clobber.
Comments (1)
Badger Head (Queens Park Rangers fan) says...
Alright Jonno, I've been delighted with Russia so far this tournament. Yuri Zhirkov reminds me of Andy Sinton in his prime in the glory years at Loftus Road and Arshavin's performance against Holland was undoubtedly reminiscent of Dennis Bailey's at Old Trafford all those years ago. Do you think the Russians can go all the way?
Posted 12:06 26th June 2008
The editor says.... Arshavin and Zhirkov have both been superb, but for me the real star is Denis Kolodin. He really does have a foot like a traction engine. It's a real shame he's banned for the semi-final. Russia will have to go up a level to beat Spain, not sure they can do it but we'll see... J