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Bordeaux

Bordeaux: it's not alll about the plonk

Bordeaux may be famous for its wine but the city itself has, in recent years, become one of France's most desirable cities to live in. After a century in the doldrums, civic pride has transformed the city's oldest quarters and monuments, stripping down years of grime and neglect to reveal ornate medieval churches, Baroque-era facades and Art Nouveau town houses of a bygone merchant class. Then there's the wine...and the great restaurants. Make no mistake, Bordeaux has rediscovered itself.

Stadium: Stade Chaban Delmas (Stade Lescure). Capacity: 35,200

Stadium History: Stade Chaban-Delmas or Stade Lescure as it was known until 2001 is home to F.C. Girondins de Bordeaux. Built in 1938 and modelled on grounds in Florence and Rome, the stadium has remained essentially the same since. It received a modest upgrading for the Football World Cup in 1998 and hosted the Heineken Cup final that year. It also hosted two matches of the 1999 Rugby World Cup. Stade Chaban Delmas is often a venue for Top 14 playoff games. Its current name is a tribute to Bordeaux's former mayor from 1947 to 1995, Jacques Chaban-Delmas. There is a tram stop outside the stadium which connects with the city centre.

Town: Bordeaux was settled by a Celtic tribe in the first century AD, who named the town Burdigala. The city soon became prosperous but suffered like most European towns from successive barbaric invasions by the Vandals, Visigoths, Franks and Normans. In 1154, Bordeaux came under English control following the marriage of Duchess Eleanor of Aquitaine with the French-speaking Count Henri Plantagenet, born in Le Mans, who became, within months of their wedding, King Henry II of England. The city flourished, primarily due to wine exports and its reputation as a centre of wine produce, was sealed.

The English grip however, weakened gradually and in the end, after the Battle of Castillon (1453) it was ceded to the French. The Châteaux Trompette (Trumpet Castle) and the Fort du Hâ, built by Charles VII of France, were the symbols of the new domination but Bordeaux suffered, handicapped by a ban on exports to England.

By the 17th century however, Bordeaux was booming again, thanks in part to the wine trade but more importantly as the centre of a sugar and slave trade with the West Indies. It was during this time that Bordeaux experienced its golden age of prosperity. It became one of the centres of the Enlightenment, and Montesquieu, whose political ideas helped form the American Constitution, served as president of the Bordeaux parliament.

Sadly, it didn't last. Perhaps ironically, it was the Enlightenment-induced French Revolution which knocked Bordeaux from its perch. Since then, the town has weathered storms, both economical and political and is currently enjoying a new wave of prosperity brought about not only by the vine but by aerospace and electronics also.

Local Rugby Clubs: 'Union Stade bordelais-Club Athlétic Bordeaux-Bègles Gironde' or USBCABBG as it is commonly known is the result of a merger between the Stade Bordelais and Begles clubs in 2006. Stade Bordelais were one of the most successful French clubs at the beginning of the 20th century, winning the French Championship seven times between 1899 and 1911. Indeed, Bordelais was the first French club to bring the Bouclier de Brennus outside of Paris. But Bordeaux-Begles were very much the dominant team of the town for the rest of the 20th century, winning the Bouclier in 1969 and 1991.

Although rugby was established in Bordeaux in the 19th century, the game has never really dislodged soccer as the game of the people, unlike the rest of the French south west. Both clubs suffered badly at the hands of professionalism with Bègles going bankrupt in 2004. Hopes for a competitive Bordeaux-based Top 14 club were given a boost in 2006 when the senior sides of both clubs were merged together to create the rather awkward USBCABBG.

Location: Bordeaux is capital of the Aquitane region which roughly covers the area from the Basque-Spanish border along the Atlantic coast north to Bordeaux. Bordeaux is also home to the prefecture of the Gironde department. The city itself sits on the Garonne river and is about 30 minutes drive from the Atlantic Ocean.

Tourist attractions: There are plenty of things to do and see in the centre of Bordeaux. What's more, transport has become much easier in recent years with the introduction of a tram system which connects to the resurgent neighborhoods. You could very easily lose yourself amid the narrow streets and little squares of the St. Pierre quarter, Bordeaux's culinary capital, with a large amount of restaurants to suit every taste and pocket-something for gourmets and gourmands. Nearby, you'll find the majestic gothic spires of St. Andre Cathedral. The 18th century Mairie is close by and also worth a look. The 6th century Gallo-Roman crypt is perhaps the most impressive attraction, sitting underneath St. Seurin Basilica, holding sarcophagi, amphorae and other relics of a long-vanished Bordeaux. Both of these buildings have been classed as world heritage sites by UNESCO, along with St. Michel Basilica.

Famous rugby players who played in Bordeaux:

Bernard Laporte
Olivier Brouzet
Vincent Moscato
Serge Simon
Patrice Collazo
Patrice Lagisquet

Transport connections:

By Air: Air France runs a Navette service between Charles de Gaulle in Paris and Bordeaux. In addition, Easyjet, Flybe, Bmibaby and Aer Lingus all run regular services to the city.
Taxis are parked outside the arrivals hall on the ground floor of the airport.
Journey time to town: approximately 25 minutes, depending on traffic. Expect to pay about EUR25

By Car: Bordeaux is an important road and motorway junction. The city is connected to Paris by the A10 motorway, with Lyon by the A89, with Toulouse by the A62, and with Spain by the A63. The ring-road around the city is known as the 'Rocade'. It should be avoided at rush hour.

By Rail: The main railway station, the Gare St-Jean, is about 10 minutes drive from the centre of the centre of the city. A tram stop is located just in front of the station. Bordeaux is the current southwestern terminus for the TGV service from Paris, offering connections with major European centres such as Lille, Brussels, Amsterdam, Cologne, Geneva and London. The TGV also serves Toulouse and Hendaye from Bordeaux, albeit at regular speeds.

RWC Matches:
09 Sep: Ireland V Namibia
15 Sep: Ireland V Georgia
25 Sep: Canada V Japan
29 Sep: Australia V Canada

Post-match hostelries:

Like any city of its size, Bordeaux has a nightlife to suit everyone's taste. The city centre is quite small so most bars and pubs can be located on foot.

The Planet Rugby Choice:

Those feeling homesick can sample the huge range of expat bars here. Bordeaux has historically had a large number of expats living within its environs and this is reflected in the number of Irish and English bars in the city. It is important to remember that Bordeaux is not really a rugby town in the strictest sense so expat bars may often be the best chance of viewing World Cup games during the tournament. The Golden Apple and the Blarney Stone are two of the best.

The Golden Apple
64, rue de la Pomme d'Or, Bordeaux 33000
One of the oldest pubs in town and still one of the best. The Golden Apple normally does a roaring trade in screening live events so expect to be busy. It's also a good spot for a burger and a game of darts.

The Blarney Stone
144, cours Victor Hugo, Bordeaux 33000

Irish bar with great pub grub close to the centre of town. As you might expect, the bar has Sky and all the usual suspects on tap behind the bar. Expect it to be packed with Dublin and Limerick accents during the World Cup.

Other Bars of Note:

Caf'ka
15, rue Clare, Bordeaux 33000

The Wild Rover
27 rue Camille Sauvageau, Bordeaux 33000

Calle Ocho
24, rue des Piliers de Tutelle, Bordeaux 33000

The Down Under
104, cours Aristide Briand, Bordeaux 33000

The Frog & Rosbif
23, rue Ausone, 33000 Bordeaux

The Connemara
15, cours d'Albret, Bordeaux 33000

The Cambridge Arms
27, rue Rode, Bordeaux 33000

La Cave Belge
19, rue des Augustins, 33000 Bordeaux

Accomodation:

Luxury Hotels:

Burdigala
+33 (0) 5 56 90 16 16 / +33 (0) 5 56 93 15 06 -
Location: Mériadeck

Holiday Inn Bordeaux City Centre
+33 (0) 5 56 92 21 21 / +33 (0) 5 56 91 08 06 -
Location: Saint-Jean

Mercure Château Chartrons
+33 (0) 5 56 43 15 00 / +33 (0) 5 56 69 15 21 -
Location: Les Chartrons/Centre Ville

Sofitel Bordeaux Aquitania
+33 (0) 5 56 69 66 66 / +33 (0) 5 56 69 66 00 -
Location: Le Lac

Mid-Range Hotels:

Alton
+33 (0) 5 56 99 55 55 / +33 (0) 5 56 99 55 99 -
Location: Saint-Augustin

Best Western Bordeaux - Bayonne Etche-Ona
+33 (0) 5 56 48 00 88 / +33 (0) 5 56 48 41 60/61 -
Location: Centre ville

Best Western Grand Hôtel Francais
+33 (0) 5 56 48 10 35 / +33 (0) 5 56 81 76 18 -
Location: Centre ville

De la Presse
+33 (0) 5 56 48 53 88 / +33 (0) 5 56 01 05 82 -
Location: Centre ville

De la Tour Intendance
+33 (0) 5 56 44 56 56 / +33 (0) 5 56 44 54 54 -
Location: Centre ville

Budget Hotels:

Balzac
+33 (0) 5 56 81 85 12
Location: Centre ville

Boulan
33 (0)5 56 52 23 62 / 33 (0)5 56 44 91 65
Location: Centre ville

Bristol
+33 (0) 5 56 81 85 01 / +33 (0) 5 56 51 24 06 -
Location: Centre ville

Campanile Le Lac
+33 (0) 5 56 39 54 54 / +33 (0) 5 56 50 19 58 -
Location: Le Lac

Choiseul
+33 (0) 5 56 52 71 24 / +33 (0) 5 56 52 00 08 -
Location: Centre ville