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Harbour life in Marseille
Strategically situated on the edge of the Mediterranean, Marseille is France's oldest city and its second largest urban area. Founded by the Greeks over 2,500 years ago, the city has played a starring role as a crossroads of trade and civilisation between Europe and Africa for centuries.
Stadium: Stade Velodrome. Capacity: 59,500
Stadium History: Home to Olympique Marseille Football Club, the Velodrome is the largest club football stadium in France. Built in 1937, the stadium featured a running track in its original specification but this was removed in the 1970s. It was extensively rebuilt for the 1998 World Cup and has since 2000 played host to a number of memorable French rugby victories over the likes of England, Australia and New Zealand. There are currently plans to expand the capacity of the ground to 80,000 but there are doubts as to who will foot the bill.
Town: Marseille began life as a trading settlement founded by Greek sailors around 600 BC. The settlement, named Massalia, quickly became a successful town, thanks to the commercial savvy of its Greek inhabitants. Like many towns on the Mediterranean however, Massalia was always at the mercy of invading armies and the town soon became the property of the Roman Empire. By the 12th century, Marseille as it was now known was beginning to grow, its progress only being halted at times of conflict. In 1481, the city was absorbed into the French Kingdom but it wasn't until 1660 that it submitted to Louis XVI. The city's port and infrastructure were developed around this time, as were the impressive Fort St. Nicolas and Fort St. Jean. By the 18th century, the city had developed into one of the great international ports, and comparable to the city-state ports of Genoa and Venice. Disaster however was never far away and in 1720 the city suffered a devastating plague, one which was to spread across nearly all of France. In total, almost 45,000 were killed, almost half the population at the time.
Marseille was an enthusiastic supporter of the French Revolution and in 1792, 600 volunteers sang 'The Hymn of the Army of the Rhine' as they marched on Paris to join the Revolution. The song became known as "La Marseillaise", and is now the French national anthem. The 19th century propelled Marseille into the modern era. French colonialism, large infrastructure projects completed during the Second Empire, and the opening of the Suez Canal helped it to extend its influence. Its economic system, based on processing raw materials, made it hugely prosperous. Once again, however, conflict was to curb Marseille's expansion as the city received a hammering during World War II. Panier, the oldest section of the town, received special attention and was almost completely destroyed. But Marseille bounced back once again, supplying construction materials for the reconstruction of French cities in the post-war period.
The advent of the 70s and the oil crisis saw the city enter a period of steep decline. The city's name became synonymous with crime, and it was the poorer, immigrant neighbourhoods that suffered the most. In recent years, huge efforts have been made to turn the city around, with some notable successes. The arrival of the TGV high speed train, the numerous cruise liners, the unprecedented tourism boom and the development of the Port and the Free Zone are the visible and incontestable signs of the city rediscovering some of its old zest.
The city has, however, suffered in recent years, primarily from poor social planning, corruption and industrial decline. Today, Marseille is still beset with social problems, deprivation and crime. Yet, for all of the city's troubles, Marseille is fighting back and shedding its old skin. The graceful Vieux Port quarter is bursting with bars and restaurants making the nightlife here one of the best in France. Old districts such as Le Panier have been dusted down and given a new lease of life with new shops, bars and restaurants. Marseille, in spite of all its difficulties, is still a fascinating city, disturbing and downright scary at times but bursting with colour and noise and distinct from any other city in France.
Local Rugby Clubs: Marseille Provence XV was formed in 2000 from the merger of four different junior clubs in the Marseille metropolitan area. The club contested at the basement level of French senior rugby, Federale 3 in their first season and gained promotion twice in succession in 2002 and 2003. Rugby was first introduced to Marseille in 1895 when Royal Navy seamen played the Sporting Club de Marseille in a friendly. But it was football that captured the hearts of the locals and rugby has struggled to compete ever since.
Tourist attractions: Marseille is a big city with 111 different quarters but the areas of interest for visitors are quite contained.
Le Vieux Port - The old port is the principal tourist quarter and its streets are lined with restaurants and cafés. Night-owls will want to check out Place Thiars, one of the liveliest squares in the city. The Theatre National de la Criée is a very popular tourist haunt and well worth a visit. A bit further on, Basilique St Victor is known locally as the 'key to the port'.
La Canebière - This is the most famous road in town. Along it you will see shopping streets such as Rue St Ferréol, and the Musée de la Mode, the Musée de la Marine et de l'Economie, and the Opéra.
Le Panier - Located next to the Vieux Port, this popular district, takes you around the Provençal pedestrian streets lined with multi-coloured buildings. The Clocher des Accoules, la place des Moulins, la Vieille Charité and la Major are all attractions to look out for.
La Joliette - The Joliette docks were built in the 19th century and the interiors have been completely renovated. The Musée des Docks Romains charts the history of the port of Marseille. Try to spend an evening at the Docks des Suds as well.
La Plaine - Otherwise known as Place Jean Jaures, this huge square has a market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays and is a busy shopping area at other times. In the adjacent streets, there is a wide choice of restaurants, bars and pubs frequented by the locals such as l'Intermédiaire or the Bar de la Plaine.
Endoume - A favourite haunt of locals, this district is dominated by Notre Dame de la Garde. The name La Bonne Mère (literally 'the Good Mother') comes from the enormous statue of the Virgin Mary on top of the bell tower. This church is also an important site for pilgrims.
Longchamp - Palais Longchamp is a good place to get a bit of fresh air but also has a few museums to keep the culture vultures happy. You can also visit the Musée Grobet-Labadie, the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Muséeum d'Histoire Naturelle-the natural history museum.
Transport connections:
By Air: The city is served by an international airport, Aéroport de Marseille Provence, located in Marignane. A shuttle coach system operates between the airport and the train station Saint-Charles.
By Car: An extensive network of motorways connects Marseille to Lyon (A7) and to the southwest (A9/A54). The stadium is located off Boulevard de Prado to the south of the city centre.
By Rail: The train station Saint-Charles is Marseille's leading train station, the other being the Maritime station. There is a direct TGV connection to Paris which takes about 3 hours.
By Metro: Two lines cross-cross the centre of the city. Rond point du Prado and Ste Marguerite Dromel both service the stadium.
RWC Matches:
08 Sep: New Zealand V Italy
12 Sep: Italy V Romania
22 Sep: Argentina V Namibia
30 Sep: France V Georgia
06 Oct: Quarter-finals
07 Oct: Quarter-finals
Post-match hostelries:
Given the city's size, there are bars and clubs to suit everyone's taste and pocket. The area around the Vieux Port is probably the best place to start an evening's boozing while La Plaine and Place Thiars are also usually choc-a-block at night time.
The Planet Rugby Choice:
L'OM Cafe
3, quai des Belges,
Marseille 13001
Kitted out with big screen tv's, this sports bar is home to the supporters club of Olympique Marseille and will be a perfect place to watch matches during the tournament.
Metro: Vieux Port
Bar de la Marine
15, quai de Rive Neuve,
Marseille 13007
This legendary bar has commanding views of the old port. Check out the sepia photos of director Marcel Pagnol who is said to have shot scenes from his film Bar de la Marine there.
Metro: Rond Pont du Prado
O'Brady's Irish Pub
378, avenue de Mazargues,
Marseille 13008
Located just ten minutes from the stadium, this pub is extremely popular with Marseille football supporters as well as the odd ex-pat.
Metro: Round-Point du Prado
The Red Lion
231 avenue Pierre Mendès-France,
Marseille 13008
Homesick visitors can try the Red Lion for some draught beer, English speaking staff and some fish and chips.
Other Bars:
Le New York
33, quai des Belges,
Marseille 13001
Metro : Vieux Port
Zoo Bar
79, promenade Georges Pompidou,
Marseille 13008
Bar du Palais
39 Rue Breteuil
Marseille 13006
Metro: Vieux Port
Le Rosly
47 Cours Julien
Marseille 13006
Metro : Cours Julien
Les Flots Bleus
82 Corniche du Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy
Marseille 13007
Accomodation:
Luxury:
Sofitel Palm Beach
200 corniche JF Kennedy,
Marseille
+33 (0) 491 161 9 00
Mercure Marseille Beauvau Vieux Port
4 rue Beauvau
Marseille 13001
+33 (0) 491 549 100
New Hotel Le Pharo
71 blvd Charles Livon
Marseille 13007
+33 (0) 491 315 315
Mid-Range Hotels:
Hotel du Palais
26 Rue Breteuil
Marseille 13006
+33 (0) 491 377 886
Hotel Lutetia Marseille
38, Allee Leon Gambetta
Marseille 13001
+33 (0) 491 508 178
Residence du Vieux Port
18 Quai du Port
Marseille 13002
+33 (0) 491 919 122
Novotel Marseille Vieux Port
36 Blvd Charles Livon
Marseille 13007
+33 (0) 496 114 211
Budget Hotels:
Hotel Hermès
2 rue Bonneterie
Marseille
+33 (0) 496 116 363
Hôtel Alizé
35 quai des Belges
Marseille
+33 (0) 491 336 697
Citea Marseille Prado Perier
161 avenue du Prado
Marseille 13008
+33 (0) 496 208 870
Ibis Marseille Prado
6 rue de Cassis
Marseille 13008
+33 (0) 491 257 373
